Amazing Tibet adventure across the roof of the world
An epic journey to Tibet to see the grand Potala Palace and the snowy Everest Base Camp
Potala Palace located on the Red Hill in the city of Lhasa, Tibet
45-hour journey from Shanghai to Lhasa, Tibet
I was excited to be boarding the Z164 train for the 45-hour journey from Shanghai to Lhasa, Tibet.
Distant snow-peaked mountains from the train journey from Shanghai to Lhasa
While I’d been to major cities in China for business and enjoyed the frenzy of cross-border shopping while living in Hong Kong, this journey was epic in that I would be seeing diverse and remote parts of the country from the relative comfort of a passenger train, culminating in an adventure that would take me from the Potala Palace to Everest Base Camp.
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The train journey did not disappoint, and I was captivated by the ever-changing landscape as the urban sprawl bled into the countryside. From the windows in my berth and along the car’s narrow passageway, the visual kaleidoscope was both entertainment and buildup.
Shaggy black yaks punctuated the monotonous panorama
It was about the forty-hour mark of the train journey when distant snow-peaked mountains and iconic shaggy black yaks began to punctuate the monotonous panorama, offering a teasing glimpse of what was to come.
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Lhasa rocked. Having just spent a week in Shanghai, population 30+ million, with outsized, over-blinged everything, Lhasa was a relatively small (population 876,000) yet vibrant place.
Ever-changing landscape as the urban sprawl bled into the Tibetian countryside
On my first evening, I was met by a student’s father who works in a remote region of Tibet, and his sister, who flew in from Chengdu to welcome me. Given that food, not language, was our common denominator that evening, dinner at a Tibetan hot pot restaurant was arranged, an especially delicious choice.
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After two days of dried fruit and nuts on the train, the spiced tofu casserole and array of fresh vegetables in bubbling pots of fragrant broth, dipped in a concoction of savoury sauces, were heaven. Connecting over new friendships, the appreciation of a shared meal and a night tour of the city lights made it a remarkable welcome to Tibet.
Bubbling hot pots of fragrant broth is an especially delicious choice
The following morning, I met our tour guide and my eight international companions, with whom I would spend the next week, as an organised tour is a requirement for all foreign visitors.
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At an altitude of 3,656 meters, our itinerary was based in Lhasa for the first few days to acclimate. As several of my group experienced altitude sickness upon arrival – severe headaches, heart palpitations, nausea – we were versed in what to expect and assured that oxygen was readily available in hotels, on our bus and in shops.
Drepung was once home to over 10,000 monks
Our first day was dubbed Tibetan Monastery Day, with the morning devoted to visiting Tibet’s largest monastery, Drepung. Founded in 1416, it was once home to over 10,000 monks and the seat of the Dalai Lama.
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Climbing up stone steps, we passed massive brass prayer wheels leading to the courtyard and enormous wooden doors opening onto the vibrant interior. A cacophony of fabrics, carpeted columns, hanging silk tapestries, colourful paintings and gold statues filled every space.
A prayer wheel driven by water
At the centre of the cavernous room was a sacred prayer area for the monks, marked by maroon-carpeted benches topped with gold-fringed headdresses that designated places. As we walked through the monastery in silence, pilgrims slid past us bearing pots and jars of butter; offerings to show devotion to Buddhas and deities.
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Placed throughout the monastery, intricately decorated brass tubs were filled with hardened butter; the candle wicks’ flames melted the top layers, and the pale liquid dripped through spouts into metal urns below.
Brass tubs with hardened butter with the candle wick’s flames melting the top
In the afternoon, we were scheduled to visit Sera Monastery, another of the great three Gelug monasteries of Tibet, to witness the famous Tibetan Monks Debate, where monks pursue knowledge and advance their studies.
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I have to admit that I anticipated a boring, parliamentary-style event in a cavernous hall, with monks on opposing sides debating a topic we would not understand. Wrong on every count!
Tibetan Monks Debate in pursuit of knowledge
The unforgettable spectacle, held outdoors in a courtyard of crushed stone and shady trees, with maroon-robed monks gathered in small clusters beneath fluttering prayer flags, was a highlight of my visit to Tibet.
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Following an established curriculum, monks challenge one another on questions such as whether the self truly exists or is merely a mental construct, what makes knowledge trustworthy and how causes and conditions shape every moment of life.
Hanging decoration
In pairs with the challenger standing and the defender sitting, the challengers clapped sharply with each question to drive their arguments forward, pacing in small arcs, stamping their feet, circling, snapping mala beads and firing off another challenge.
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The passionate pace of the debate kept the energy high, as rapid-fire questions tackled issues that have shaped Tibetan Buddhism for centuries.
Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet
The dedicated performance was electric, with hand gestures, body lunges, and passionate verbal exchanges turning philosophy into something alive and physical, delivered as a near-full-contact sport. It was nothing short of fascinating.
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I first saw the iconic Potala Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site, lit up the previous night, an immense monument perched high above the old city of Lhasa.
Entrance to Drepung Monastery
The tiers of white and ochre walls, built over centuries, stand as an enduring and powerful symbol of Tibetan culture and spirituality.
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The palace served as the Dalai Lama’s chief residence from 1649 until 1959, when the 14th Dalai Lama left Tibet.
Cavernous room for the monks in Drepung Monastery
Now primarily a heritage and museum site, the palace houses over 100,000 relics, ancient Buddhist scriptures, historic documents, statues, murals, and thangkas.
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In the bright morning sun, the massive structure inspired awe as we entered the grounds and began the climb along zigzag stone paths and staircases across multiple levels, leading to richly adorned chapels filled with hundreds of golden statues and intricate murals.
Inside Drepung Monastery
It was fortuitous that we were visiting during the annual painting of the palace exterior, which takes place in September of the Tibetan calendar year, an event involving a collective, laborious community effort over the course of a week.
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As we descended the pathways twisting around the back of the palace, we were joined by hundreds of paint-splattered volunteers, canisters strapped to their backs and jugs of thick white liquid in hand.
Tibetan Monks Debate, Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet
At the numerous mixing stations along the way, offerings of sugar, milk, saffron, and gelatine were added to vats containing a base of kaolin clay, white ash, and cow-bone glue, time-honoured concoctions used to enhance adhesion, weather resistance, and surface hardness.
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All around us, small groups tossed paint onto walls. They filled long hoses to hand-spray exterior surfaces, some rappelling down walls and precariously hanging over balconies and ledges in a quest to cover every visible surface. I was thrilled to be a part of this exceptional event.
Annual painting of the palace exterior
When I gestured my interest in participating, I was given a plastic bowl and a bucket of the thick liquid, and I took tremendous delight in flinging paint onto a rock wall, the white splatter on my cell phone, sunhat, and shoes, becoming a badge of honour.
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I was mesmerised by the stunning beauty of the Jokhang Temple’s rooftop, the white pots of multi-coloured flowers highlighting the golden pagodas against the bluest of skies.
A monk in front of Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet
It was a privilege to have had a brief glimpse of the treasures within and to have walked through its 1386-year history.
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Once outside, a fascinating scenario was taking place in which pilgrims were praying and performing prostrations at the temple gate, lowering themselves fully to the ground; palms, knees and forehead touching the earth, then rising, and repeating the motion in a steady, meditative flow, mantras murmured in a profound expression of faith.
Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet
These acts of devotion, both physical and spiritual, show reverence for the Triple Gem: Buddha, his teachings, and the spiritual community.
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Equipped with wooden hand boards, padded aprons and knee pads, each prostration marks both a physical journey and an inner pilgrimage, a humbling act of faith that is considered a way to purify one’s body, speech and mind and is believed to eliminate bad karma.
Street shop, Lhasa, Tibet
This display of reverence was performed on mats outside the Jokhang Temple’s entrance and in a clockwise motion around the Barkhor Street kora (religious circle) surrounding the temple.
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The prostrations took place amongst locals strolling and shopping, turning the bustling marketplace into a moving tapestry of spiritual purpose.
Stunning beauty, Lhasa, Tibet
While bartering for a yak bell in a small side shop, prostrating devotees passed by, interspersed with men proffering blessings with handheld prayer wheels, monks clasping cell phones and mothers with swaddled babes on their backs. Truly remarkable and another Tibetan highlight.
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The next two days were spent en route to Everest Base Camp, driving 360 km each day and slowly climbing from 3,650 to 5,200 meters.
Paint-splattered volunteers with canisters strapped to their backs and ready to paint Potala Palace
Heading west from Lhasa to Gyantse, we reached the Gampala Pass and stopped to take in the stunning views of Yamdrok Lake and the Korola Glacier, Tibet’s largest. The view from Simila Mountain Pass, further along our journey, was stunning; the mountain and river vistas were breathtaking, not only in their singular beauty, but also with prayer flags whipping in the wind high above, making it a colourful and dramatic scene.
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The drive through the countryside was beautiful in its simplicity: barley fields, farms tucked away at the base of the mountains, and fields of yaks, sheep, and cows. A stop for a simple but filling farmhouse lunch of boiled potatoes, yak stew, butter tea and barley beer completed the scene.
Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
The following afternoon, at the Gyatsola Pass viewpoint, we had our first glimpse of the Himalayan range and, upon entering Mount Everest National Nature Reserve, marvelled at the majestic lineup of the five highest peaks, Everest at the forefront. We were so close!
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The excitement mounted as we left our van for a specially equipped eco bus designed to protect the delicate ecosystem, and we travelled the remaining 104 km on a rough, off-road section, slowly manoeuvring through switchbacks as we climbed to 5,280 meters to reach Base Camp.
Prostrating devotees on Barkhour Street, Lhasa, Tibet
We unloaded, were assigned our accommodations, and, for those who needed it, took oxygen canisters. Anxious to experience the late-afternoon transition to dusk, several of us made our way to the farthest point to witness the sun’s golden hues casting a warm glow beneath the hovering clouds. I stayed long afterwards as the moon rose over the mountain range before making my way back to camp.
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The following morning, still dark, I opened the door to the embrace of a winter wonderland, the ground covered in a blanket of snow with fat flakes gently landing on my pink toque.
Mother with baby on her back, Lhasa, Tibet
It was perfect! A tour member and I had risen early to experience the sunrise, and with the thin air making breathing a challenge, we slowly made our way to the point where we’d been the evening before.
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Trudging through the snow and breathing heavily, it took us almost an hour and several stops to reach our destination. It was here that I wanted to hang prayer flags to honour two special people, and now my mission was accomplished. It was light now, with limited visibility, and my friend was struggling to breathe; she required oxygen and had to turn back.
Yamdrok Lake and the Korola Glacier
I was savouring the unique joy of being alone on the mountain with the faint outline of Everest in front of me, a quiet beauty and peaceful tranquillity.
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I emblazoned the moment into my mind while keeping the shrinking figure of my companion in sight as she slowly retreated in the distance. Although I grew up with Canadian winters and was no stranger to blizzards, my inner alarm kept pace with the rising snowfall and the ever-decreasing visibility.
Jokhang Temple Wall, Lhasa, Tibet
The surrounding mountainscape was now barely visible behind the rapidly forming blanket of snow, and I knew it was not wise to stay on the mountain alone; I had to make my way back to camp right away.
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It was an arduous walk back. Breathing in short gasps and leaning into the snowstorm, I kept the faint outline of Rongbuk Monastery, situated on the edge of the camp, as a visual guide. One step after another.
I was relieved when I finally arrived back at camp, but before I made it to my cabin, I received an urgent message: we were to evacuate immediately; if it continued to snow heavily, we might not get out at all! We grabbed our gear and mustered for departure, no time to waste.
Prayer flags whipping high in the wind
The buses we had arrived on could not manoeuvre down the steep incline, and we were forced to make our way down on foot.
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It was a slowdown and slippery descent down the switchback roads, many evacuating with oxygen canisters pressed to their faces. There was an eerie silence, a whiteout on the horizon, no voices, no interaction, no communication.
Mount Everest National Nature Reserve the Himalayan mountain range
We were consumed by our own thoughts about the unexpected turn of events, about our survival.
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The craziest thing (if being evacuated from Everest Base Camp wasn’t enough) is that, as I was making my way down the mountain, I connected on a WhatsApp video call with my brother… who was in a Vancouver pub watching the Toronto Blue Jays play in the World Series.
Winter wonderland covered in a blanket of snow
Surreal to share a moment with him and get an update on the score, all while being evacuated from Everest Base Camp.
Text and photos Elaine Crebo
