Authentic Ancient Chinese Gold energize all social elite
A symbol of power and wealth Ancient Chinese Gold
Headdress ornament, Western Xia (1032-1227), Gold with turquoise inlay
Radiance: Ancient Chinese Gold
From old civilisations to current times, ancient Chinese gold has been a marker of wealth and prosperity.
Stag-Shaped plaque 6th-4th century BC Gold
In China, records of golden artefacts stretch as far back as about 1700 BC. (In ancient Europe, gold is cited in documents from about 5000 BC onwards.)
Related Treasures from the Forbidden City of the Ming and Qing dynasties
Through political exchanges, trade, and migration, goldsmithing techniques and styles weave the story of gold’s transformation and significance.
Belt plaques with lions and foreigners Liao dynasty (907-1125 AD) or Song dynasty (960-1279 AD)
To fully immerse myself in the precious metal’s intricate history of gold in ancient China, I decided to explore Hong Kong Palace Museum’s Radiance exhibition.
Related Prosperity and Magnificence the Sui and Tang Dynasties in Shaanxi Province
Housing over two hundred objects from the Steppe, the Central Plains, and the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau, it is easy to lose yourself in the glitter and glamour these pieces embody.
Torque with wolves and bosses (4-3 BC)
A naturally occurring reddish-yellow element, gold commonly manifests in alloy form beside silver, copper, and other rare elements.
Mask – Liao dynasty (907-1125), Silver
As a result, the portion of retrievable gold varies wildly from less than one per cent to eighty per cent. This scarcity is a defining pillar in gold’s illustrious stature.
Related Treasures from the Tang dynasty
However, it was only after the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) that the practice of gold mining emerged. Notably, in ancient Chinese literature, the character for gold also referred to bronze and copper.
Pair of bracelets with flowers and birds Liao dynasty (907-1125 AD) Gold
Gold’s presence in society begins with the Xianbei people (comprising the Murong, Tuoba and Duan tribes), who inhabited the Steppe region in Mongolia and Northern China.
Tang Dynasty Gold
Initially ruled by the Xiongnu Empire (3 BC-1 AD), the Xianbei broke away and regained territorial control in 1 BC.
Pendant from the Northern Wei dynasty (386-534 AD), Gold
Further ahead in history, the Murong branch founded several Yan states (337-436 AD) while the Tuoba established the powerful Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534 AD).
Related Treasures of Global Jewellery from the MET: The Body Transformed
Xianbei ornaments were often decorated with abstract patterns. Dangling accessories known as buyao (swaying with each step) were also characteristic of the period, with samples found as far as Central Asia and the Korean peninsula.
Two pairs of earrings from the Northern Wei dynasty (386-534 AD)
For the Tuoba people, horses were an essential part of life through transportation, mounted warfare and horse sacrifice, which was a significant component of elite burials.
Related Majestic Han dynasty China’s first Golden Age
Tuoba goldsmiths developed an innovative decorative style that combined winged animal motifs with turquoise inlay.
Shoulder ornaments with “Face of Glory”, 18th-19th century Gold with turquoise, ruby, and coal inlay
This style was utilised in personal ornaments that were popular among the elite. The nomad group also wore ornaments on their leather and cloth belts, mainly buckles, end pieces, and plaques affixed with nails and backed onto bronze plates.
Tuoba Goldsmiths
Floral patterns were the most common. Another recurring motif was elephants.
Plaque with immortal and imaginary animal Eastern Han (25-220 AD) or Jin (265-420 AD) dynasty, Gold and bronze
Plaques and fabrics bearing the Indian elephant have been excavated from several Tuoba tombs, reflecting the cultural interchange between the tribe and South Africa.
Plaques with imaginary animals in floral roundels, Tubo (7th-9th century), Gilt silver with turquoise inlay
Advancements in goldsmithing techniques broadened the scope of capability. Fine jewellery arose throughout the region.
Plaque with imaginary animal Western Han dynasty (206 BC-8 AD) Gold
Gold nose rings and armlets have been connected to the Siba culture (about 18-15 BC) in the Hexi Corridor of China’s Gansu province, as well as the Lower Xiajiadian culture (approximately 16-13 BC) around the Yan Mountains north of the North Chain Plain.
Related Epic journey to Tibet grand Potala Palace and snowy Everest Base
Gold-beaded borders can be traced to the art of ancient Iranian civilisations, Sasan and Sogdia, cultures that played a significant role in the Silk Roads trade.
Belt hooks with diagonal grid, quatrefoils, and boar, Warring States period (475-221 BC), Silver with gold and turquoise inlay
Artisans of the Tang dynasty gradually adapted the beaded borders into their floral roundels.
Related Tang dynasty golden age artistic highlights
Tang artisans adopted foreign gold-working techniques that regularly combined granulation with gemstones and glass inlay, adding to their luxurious effect.
Animal mask-shaped plaque Eastern Han (25-220 AD) or Jin (265-420 AD) dynasty Gold with inlay
As high-ranking Tang women were fond of elaborate hairstyles, artisans significantly focused on constructing intricate designs for the social elite. Combs were a common sight.
Comb with mandarin ducks holding ribbons – Tang dynasty (618-907), Gilt silver
Mostly fashioned into half-moon-shaped tops, some were small and intended as hair ornaments, with only the comb top visible.
Hairpin with Tibetan Buddhist symbols, Ming dynasty (1368-1644), Gold with gemstone inlay and bronze
These were often elaborate constructions with a pierced and cut-away design or in repoussé (designs raised in relief by hammering or punching).
Related French jewellery design from 1770 to 1970
The most common patterns – paired birds, butterflies and flowers – were outlined by fine gold granules.
Pectoral – Liao dynasty (907-1125) or later, Gilt copper
Flowering tree (Huashu) hairpins, a Tang dynasty creation, were heavily embellished with cutouts of animals, birds, insects and flowers.
Related Chinese motifs and patterns in art and culture of China
Shapes and patterns were closely related to the Tang custom of cutting sheets of fabric or paper at the beginning of spring.
Ming dynasty pouch-shaped cape weight with flowers and birds
Phoenix-shaped hairpins came into vogue in the Tang dynasty and remained fashionable during the Song dynasty (960-1279 AD).
Ming Dynasty Gold
The Ming dynasty (1368-1644 AD) saw the introduction of hairnets (Diji). This invention broadened the scope for creativity, as numerous hairpins could be attached to the piece.
Headdress with dragons and phoenixes – Liao dynasty (908-1125), Gilt copper
Some designs were more sophisticated styles of headdresses referred to as “head and dace” (Toumian) and were likely made by imperial workshops called the Jewellery Service (Yinzouju).
Headdress ornament with phoenixes chasing a pearl Liao dynasty (907-1125 AD), Gilt copper
While women adorned their heads with hairpins, early Ming dynasty emperors wore round hats. Some were decorated with lotus-shaped gold finials enhanced with precious and semiprecious stones.
Related The Great Unity: Civilisation of the Qin and Han Dynasties
Several are displayed at the exhibition, a testament to their political significance and artistic mastery.
Cape weight with crane and stag, Ming dynasty (1368-1644 AD), Gold
With its extensive displays, The Palace Museum’s Radiance exhibit walks visitors through the evolution and achievements of ancient China’s gold-working techniques.
Related Maritime Silk Road daring time for world myths
It also illustrates the dynamic nature of cross-regional connections in politics, culture and commerce through the Steppe and the Silk Roads over the past three millennia.
Belt buckle with real and imaginary animals in combat Gilt bronze
Time-honoured objects continue to shed light on the pattern of diversity and unity of the Chinese nation through various regional exchanges.
Test & photos by Victoria Mae Martyn
