Astonishing Cartier jewels for famous people of influence
Stunning treasures reveal Cartier and the world of women
Tiara, Cartier, 2012, Platinum, diamonds and emerald, on loan from Pansy Ho
Cartier jewellery
Whether it’s Marilyn Monroe announcing that they’re a girl’s best friend or leading industry player DeBeers declaring that they are “forever”, there is no doubt that Cartier diamond-encrusted jewellery is a powerful symbol of status.
Their significance in the world of fashion rose as women gained more autonomy and financial freedom.
From the modish jazz age to post-WWII prosperity and beyond, jewellery courtiers produced live representations of the contemporary spirit.
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Cartier, a brand now known worldwide, responded to changing times with innovative pieces that continue to inspire awe and envy to this day.
Dolphin bangle, Cartier Paris, 1969, Gold, diamonds and emeralds, Cartier Collection
With an impressive range of products – including tiaras, necklaces, bags, watches and clocks – the house of Cartier and its genius coterie of designers engaged in twentieth-century cross-cultural discourse and featured prominently in the public championing of independent women.
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The Palace Museum’s Cartier & Women exhibition showcases how the developing public presence of women in society impacted fashion and jewellery design.
These days, corsets are near-synonymous with restriction and stuffiness. In the Victorian era (1837-1901), it was a non-negotiable style of dress for respectable women.
Necklace, Cartier Paris, 1911, Platinum, diamonds and natural pearls, Cartier Collection
For the fashion-forward, the hourglass shape was the ideal figure. Cartier’s garland style, which was in vogue at the time, is reflected in a special-order stomacher brooch.
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Designed by Cartier Paris in 1907, the piece is inspired by eighteenth-century French ornaments and neoclassical Parisian architecture. It features leaflike scrolls with cascades of diamonds.
Stomacher ornamental brooch
The stomacher, the triangular central panel of a corseted dress, also became a place to display large ornamental brooches.
Stomacher brooch, Cartier Paris, 1907, Platinum, diamonds and sapphires, Cartier Collection
Designed by Cartier Paris in 1906, the lace ribbon brooch on display was commissioned by King Edward VII’s private financial adviser, Sir Ernest Cassel.
Comprised of platinum, gold and diamonds, such an ornate ornamental brooch fell out of vogue in the early twentieth century as women turned to simpler designs.
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Many stomacher brooches were reset when corsets went out of fashion, making the three full pieces on display a rare treat.
Patiala necklace, Cartier, 1928 (restoration of 1982), Platinum, diamonds, cubic zirconium, Cartier Collection
In the early 1900s, the “new woman” concept emerged in Europe and America. Emphasising independence, mobility and rebellion against established social codes, contemporary women stood in stark contrast to the domestic and submissive Victorian woman.
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Once a symbol of aristocracy, jewellery became a powerful symbol of personal style.
Art Deco movement
The Art Deco movement (1920s-30s) gave rise to structural designs to complement the popular, fluid “flapper girl” silhouettes. Earrings also grew in length.
Abandoning the prim gloves of their Victorian predecessors, women adorned their arms with strap bracelets and bangles. The bandeau, an ornamental headband, became the perfect match to the popular bob haircut.
Head ornament, Cartier New York, about 1924, Platinum, white and pink gold, diamonds and feathers, Cartier Collection
While tiaras were pinned into women’s hairdos, close-fit headbands allowed for freedom of movement. Other modern updates to women’s accessories included cigarette cases, compact mirrors, lipstick holders and vanity cases.
Left: Cigarette case, Cartier, 1938, Gold, silver gilt, wood, Cartier Collection, Provenance: Marlene Dietrich. Right: Bangle, Cartier New York, 1940, Gold, silver, sapphires, Cartier Collection. Both the Duchess of Windsor and Marlene Dietrich owned similar pieces
Cartier’s influences were not limited to the Western socio-political climate. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the combination of modern archaeological findings and growing travel accessibility created a demand for products that engaged in cross-cultural discourse.
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For example, in 1922, the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb became a global sensation that revived interest in ancient Egypt. In response, Cartier combined Art Deco designs with Egyptian imagery.
Scarab brooch, Cartier London, 1925, Gold, platinum, blue Egyptian faience, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, citrines and onyx, Cartier Collection
One such piece Cartier crafted was both a nod to this trend and a celebration of women’s strength.
Designed by Cartier Paris circa 1928-30, the Egyptian Goddess vanity case was acquired by the Princess of Kapurthala, Amrit Kaur, India’s first health minister and a great champion of women’s rights.
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Fittingly, the vanity case’s central diamond motif represents Maat, the goddess of truth and justice, as a young woman.
Egyptian striking clock, Cartier Paris, 1927, Gold, silver gilt, mother-of-pearl, coral, lapis lazuli, emeralds, cornelian and enamel, Cartier Collection
From the 1850s onwards, increasing trade flows between the East and West revitalised interest in Eastern art. Chinese art profoundly impacted Cartier and women’s style in general.
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The fine craftsmanship and design of Chinese porcelain, lacquers, jade, textiles and jewellery ignited widespread enthusiasm. One international icon who admired Chinese designs was Barbara Hutton.
Heiress of the Woolworth retail business at the age of 21, Hutton became the world’s wealthiest woman. She had a particular fondness for jadeite, a classic symbol of wealth and status in Chinese decorative art.
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One unique wedding gift Hutton received was a jadeite necklace to celebrate her marriage to Russian Prince Alexis Mdivani in 1933.
Necklace, Cartier Paris, 1934, Jadeite, platinum, gold, diamonds and rubies, Cartier Collection, Provenance: Barbara Hutton
Composed of twenty-seven matching jadeite beads, Hutton further refined its rare composition. At her request, Cartier replaced the original clasp with one set with diamonds and rubies, creating a striking contrast of red and green.
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Besides finding inspiration in renowned female figures, Cartier also recognised their talents and brought them to the fore.
Jeanne Toussaint
The brand’s first female creative director, Jeanne Toussaint, is credited with the panther imagery famously linked to Cartier.
Toussaint necklace, Cartier, 2018, White gold and zirconium oxides, Cartier Collection
A style icon, Toussaint’s eye for the exquisite was noticed by Louis Cartier, who recruited her into the newly created, accessory-dedicated department.
Tiger bracelet, Cartier Paris, 1967, Gold, yellow diamonds, emeralds and onyx, Cartier Collection
She was nicknamed “the panther” in recognition of her strong character and free spirit. She translated this imagery into her work, creating timeless pieces for famous clients.
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Commissioned in 1949 by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, the panther clip brooch is a provocative piece crafted from platinum, white gold, diamonds, and sapphires.
Hindu necklace, Cartier Paris, 1936, altered in 1963, Platinum, white gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies, Cartier Collection, Provenance: Daisy Fellowes
Infamous for her monarchy-shaking romance with the former heir to the British Crown, Prince Edward, the two shared a passion for exquisite jewellery.
In addition to Simpson’s engagement ring, the Duke of Windsor commissioned numerous pieces from Cartier as a declaration of love. The bib necklace, designed by Cartier Paris in 1947, was one such special order.
All its gems, except the turquoise, were provided by the duke. The thirteen-pointed necklace commands attention.
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Cartier hit the right note with the combination of turquoise and purple amethysts, and Simpson, enchanted by the pairing, ordered additional pieces in this combination.
Travel case with toiletries, Cartier London, 1927
The dazzling exhibition commemorates many famous figures and the Cartier pieces they inspired.
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Gloria Swanson enjoyed a career as one of the most successful silent screen stars. Like others of her time, Swanson encountered difficulties with the advent of talking films.
Diamond and Ruby Necklace, Cartier Paris, 1951, Provenance: Elizabeth Taylor
However, she overcame the odds and became one of the few silent-era stars who experienced a career revival.
Her historic comeback to the screen in the 1950 film Sunset Boulevard earned Swanson her third Oscar nomination and reignited the public’s adoration of her talents.
Bird clip brooch, Cartier Paris, 1948, Platinum, white gold and diamonds, Cartier Collection
Swanson’s diamond bracelet, designed by Cartier Paris in 1930, was as timeless as the actress who adorned it.
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The rounded bracelet is understated and intricate in composition, composed of platinum, diamonds, and rock crystals, and was featured in her 1932 films Perfect Understanding and Sunset Boulevard.
Platinum and Diamond Bracelet, Cartier Paris, 1930, Provenance: Gloria Swanson
Besides stunning Hollywood films with her presence, Princess Grace of Monaco remains a pillar of class and sophistication.
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Brief as her acting career was, Kelly made her mark, earning the Academy Award for Best Actress at only 25.
Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco collection: Tiara, Cartier Paris, 1955, Platinum, gold, diamonds and rubies: Necklace, Cartier Paris, 1953, Platinum and diamonds: Poodle brooch, Cartier Paris, 1953, Platinum, gold, diamonds and rubies: Engagement ring, Cartier Paris, 1956, Platinum and diamonds. Monaco Princely Palace Collection
Her engagement ring, which she wore when marrying the Prince of Monaco, Rainier III, in 1956, was commissioned by Cartier Paris and remains part of the Monaco Princely Palace Collection. Through the ’50s, the couple were gifted many Cartier pieces.
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Shifting focus, Latin American film icon MarÃa Félix refused to be limited by a stereotype. Staunchly refusing to learn English or step into Hollywood, Felix’s bold nature translated into her tastes.
Bangle, Cartier, 2018, Platinum, diamonds and emeralds, Private Collection
Though many considered her tough and arrogant, Felix never allowed public perception to dampen her sense of self-worth.
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A lover of finery, she is noted for owning a peculiar Cartier jewellery piece, such as a wrap-around chimaera bracelet (Cartier Paris, 1972) of gold, diamonds, coral and emeralds.
Chimaera bangle, 1954, Platinum, white gold, diamonds and coral, Cartier Collection
Each decade brought forth a new chapter and fresh sources of inspiration for Cartier.
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Women’s rising social status, the promotion of their rights, and more fluid gender boundaries broadened the scope of imagination for couturiers across the globe.
Moreover, many women actively pursued the collection of jewellery to assert their influence, autonomy, and character.
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This is why they have sought ways to adorn and individualise themselves with glittering ornamentation since the dawn of history.
Text Victoria Mae Martyn & photos Victoria Mae Martyn, Cammy Yiu
