Fascinating Marrakesh for the fearless world traveler
Travel wish list Marrakesh steeped in exotic mystique
Our very own Marrakesh Express
Steeped in mystique and long on my travel bucket list, I was thrilled when the stars aligned, and my son and I could travel together on a journey halfway around the world to embrace the exotic, our very own Marrakesh Express!
Blurry-eyed after cross-country and transatlantic flights from Vancouver to Toronto to London to Marrakesh, the shuttle bus dropped us off at one of the nineteen gates punctuating the wall defining the old city of Marrakesh.
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We blindly followed the street valet and his two-wheeled pushcart with our luggage as it bumped along a bustling cobblestone alley into a narrow empty side lane before turning into an even narrower passageway devoid of life but for the abundance of well-fed alley cats.
A palatial welcome awaited
Flanked by crumbling walls and enormous dilapidated wooden doors built into the thick clay walls, it was a relief to see a hanging sign indicating RIAD AFRICA.
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We were home! Stepping through the tiny entrance into a palatial interior, it was a far cry and a world away from the 400-meter labyrinth it took to get us there.
We were escorted to the inner salon, replete with red velvet settees and glass-topped tables, the ornate brass filigree matching the trim on the wooden bookcases.
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Brass lamps suspended on chains from the coffered ceiling and the sparkling mosaic floor tiles completed the picture of old-time opulence.
Opulence from another era
Under the flickering sunlight that filtered through the open ceiling three floors above, a sparkling splash pool was centred between imposing white columns.
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We were transported into another world, and as we sipped the sweet tea that had been poured to welcome our arrival, we were spellbound.
Jemaa el-Fina
Wanting to capture sunset in Jemaa el-Fina, the infamous square in Marrakesh’s Medina quarter, we made our way through a treasure trove of colourful stalls lining the open-aired cobblestone passageway.
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Our first steps through the arched stone entrance into the central square in Marrakesh’s old city was an onslaught to the senses; a cacophony of sounds, sights, smells and a pulsating energy that defined Medina’s night market.
Medina quarter
The carnival atmosphere was electric, with the throngs milling about in everything from burkas to blue jeans.
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Animated young men called out from perches high up on fruit-adorned mobile stands, offering samples of fresh juice as they dramatically vied to lure potential customers from neighbouring stalls.
Abaya-clad women squatted on plastic stools and urged passersby to sit for henna tattoos while shoeshine men dozed at their stools between customers.
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Drummers, singers and dancers were interspersed throughout the square, encircled by clapping and foot stomping spectators.
Marrakesh kaleidoscope
Lamp sellers laid out their delicate wares next to carts teeming with multi-coloured leather slippers, western t-shirts and Moroccan djellabas [outer robes].
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Clay tagines were displayed on the ground next to snake charmers, luring an audience with their flute’s distinctive and penetrating wail, a siren song for both the reptiles and the throngs.
Tethered monkeys in frilly dresses enthralled children who clamoured around them, clasping sugar spun balls of sticky pink fluff on a stick.
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Like a kaleidoscope, artful patterns were established throughout the square. A haze of smoke and rich smells wafted from the open kitchens, which displayed skewers of vegetables, raw meat, and seafood to entice customers.
As eager waiters cajoled potential diners to try their wares, nothing was left to chance. With grilled kabobs sending up plumes of smoke, hearty tagines laden with layers of meats and vegetables and vats of couscous, the preparation and presentation was the essence of gastronomic abundance.
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With pounding and pulsating rhythms emanating from the square, the crowds provided a colourful and ever-changing accompaniment to the eclectic ambience.
Koutoubia Mosque
The towering minaret of the twelfth century Koutoubia Mosque lit up the background, showcasing the most magnificent monument in the city. A night to remember, our welcome to magical and mystical Marrakesh!
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Living within the red clay walls of the Medina invited exploration of the souks [marketplaces] and myriads of mazes.
Meandering down a tangle of cobblestone paths leading to the square, we were ensconced by doorways festooned with intricately woven carpets and endless displays of leather bags and shoes, silver jewellery, clay tagines, ornate tea sets, trinkets, keychains, fridge magnets, traditional Berber clothing, bins of spices, tubs of olives, jars of herbs, woven baskets… and that was just in the first ten minutes.
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Hours upon hours of wandering produced an increasing awe for the centuries of history embedded in the worn cobblestones now trod upon by pedestrians navigating horse-pulled wagons, push carts and motorbikes. We were captivated at every turn.
Outside the walls of the Medina, a day trip to the Atlas Mountains and Ourika Valley took us through arid deserts and lush green valleys where we visited a traditional Berber home, ground Argon nuts on a stone mortar and pestle and enjoyed lunch with our feet dangling in the Ourika River.
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We braved a hike that demanded agility and balance as we clambered over boulders along a narrow path carved into the mountainside.
Far below, the abyss that was a constant reminder of our fate should we slip – no such thing as guardrails.
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The highlight of the Moroccan countryside, however, was our two-day trip into the Zagora desert, the journey taking us through spectacular winding mountain passes where horse-drawn carriages and donkeys appeared along the roadside and where homes built into the hillside looked like hamlets created from clay Lego bricks.
Rocky foothills to undulating sand
Throughout the journey, seemingly out of nowhere and in the middle of nowhere, stands crammed with colourful earthenware pots were displayed on the sides of the road.
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The landscape changed over the course of the journey, with mountains receding into rocky foothills and then spilling into undulating hills of sand.
As we travelled, the hues of the landscape changed from salmon to beige to terracotta, providing a changing backdrop to map our progress to the desert.
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A stop in Ouarzazate at the UNESCO site of Ait Benhaddou, where the movies Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth, Gladiator and Game of Thrones were filmed, transported us into another era as we sought shade from the blistering sun among the dank passageways and low-ceilinged rooms in the historic earthen clay architecture.
This, the gateway to the desert, set the stage for our camel trek.
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With great anticipation we came upon a caravan of dromedaries [one hump camels] that would take us on the remainder of our desert trek.
Wrapping the iconic blue scarves of the Bedouin around our heads to protect us from the late afternoon sun, we were heaved onto the backs of our mounts and, in a train of six, slowly made our way across the rolling dunes as the setting sun created our silhouettes in the sand.
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Arriving at the spartan Berber camp of half a dozen tents erected in a circle, we settled onto rattan mats under a canopy.
We were formally welcomed by our camel drivers, who had perfected the flourish of pouring tea.
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Gathering for dinner sometime later, our multi-tasking camel drivers delivered trays laden with steaming tagines, boiled eggs, thick rounds of local bread and sliced fruit.
On wooden stools around a small round table, strangers from Canada, Portugal and Switzerland bonded under the North African desert sky.
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As it came time to settle in for the night, a growing sense of claustrophobia made it impossible to be trapped in our sweltering, windowless tent, and I elected to take my chances with the night creatures of the desert and sleep in the open air.
Spreading my sarong over cushions on the rattan carpet where we’d sipped tea hours earlier, with eyes wide open in terrified anticipation of sand serpents, I laid down to await my fate.
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Some hours later, after drifting off to the sounds of the desert, I awoke to a rising sun and along with the camels that had settled for the night behind my open-aired tent.
Then, I stretched and reached out to embrace the magical day before me.
Text and photos Elaine Crebo
