Hoan Kiem Lake myths and revealing ways to enjoy sights
Legends and history of Hoan Kiem Lake remarkable location
Hoan Kiem Lake, lake of the returned sword
Hoan Kiem Lake Heart of Hanoi
At the heart of Hanoi lies Hoan Kiem lake. Surrounded by three main streets – Hàng Khay, Lê Thái Tổ and Đinh Tiên Hoàng, the bustling roads do nothing to dampen the quiet magnificence of the waters and surrounding landmarks.
St. Joseph’s Cathedral situated west of Hoan Kiem Lake
Hoan Kiem Lake is located in northern Vietnam, at the thousand-year-old capital of Hanoi. The city is a blend of historical fascination and bustling modernity.
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Back when the country was divided by kingdoms, Hoan Kiem Lake served as a parade ground for the royal court.
Entrance gate at Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam
Comprising an area of twelve hectares, the lake sits at the forefront of public life. Tourists and locals alike regularly flock to its waters, which comes as no surprise.
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Hoan Kiem offers something for everyone – history enthusiasts, the spiritually inclined or aesthetic admirers.
Phoenix roof detail
We begin the story of the lake, by rewinding the clock about six hundred years. In 1407, the kingdom of Đại Việt (modern-day Vietnam) was undergoing its fourth era of northern domination.
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Following the Ming invasion of the late fourteenth century, the Chinese government established an occupation that lasted twenty years.
Koi fish
Ming general Zhang Fu, a huge proponent of Vietnam’s absorption into the Chinese empire, claimed that over one thousand members of Vietnam’s elite wanted to be recognised by the reigning government.
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However, this occupation was not welcomed by all. While there were pockets of approval for the Chinese settlers, local dissidence and revolts flared up.
Ming general Zhang Fu was a proponent of Vietnam’s absorption into China
Among the rebellion’s leaders was Lê Lợi. Born into a prominent landowning family, Lê Lợi was a senior scholar-official until the Chinese came into power.
Lion statue
Refusing to serve the new rulers, he raised arms against them. As the years went on and the fighting showed no signs of ending, the Ming Emperor wanted to cede Vietnam and shift focus on political tensions further north.
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But general Zhang Fu was determined to bring Vietnam into the fold. It wasn’t until 1428 that the Chinese occupation came to an end, and Lê Lợi helped declare Vietnamese independence from China.
Chinese characters for “Moon and Wind” on lintel at historic Ngoc Son Temple
Great myths are born out of great victories. While the Chinese governors controlled the country and held sway over a significant number of Vietnamese collaborators, Lê Lợi was not among them.
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Unlike his companions, Lê Lợi was greatly affected by the well-being of the common people, who suffered at the expense of the Chinese authorities and supportive local bourgeoisie. Someone had to take a stand.
White chrysanthemum
Thankfully, Lê Lợi would not be handling things without support. Sympathetic to local oppression, one day the Sea God emerged before Lê Lợi and presented him with a magical sword.
Le Loi declared himself the “Prince of Pacification”
The weapon prepared him to fight the enemy and chase away the foreign invaders. Armed for battle, Lê Lợi declared himself the “Prince of Pacification”.
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In 1418, the divinely-blessed general Lê Lợi led a series of uprisings aimed at removing the Chinese overlords from the country. The mutinies began in Thanh Hoa province, south of northern Vietnam’s Red River valley.
Indian head ginger
Once Lê Lợi’s army secured the lowlands, they steadily forced the Chinese to retreat and successfully recaptured Hanoi in 1426.
After defeating the Ming army, Lê Lợi took the moral high ground and helped the defeated Ming forces return to China. Extending an olive branch, he re-established Vietnam’s previous tributary system with China and maintained respectful diplomatic ties with their former conquerors.
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In 1428, the Ming emperors grudgingly acknowledged the kingdom of Đại Việt, which became an established independent state.
Chinese characters for “Bridge of the Morning Sunlight” on the Huc Bridge, connecting the shore to the Ngoc Son Temple
Lê Lợi’s victorious recovery of Vietnam led to him becoming the country’s most honoured mediaeval hero.
He then ascended the throne as the emperor Lê Thái Tổ and established the Later Lê dynasty, which lasted for nearly 360 years.
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After ten years of battle with the Chinese, the emperor had a chance to enjoy the well-won peace. Going out onto the capital’s lake, Lê Lợi intended to enjoy a day of boating. Fate had a different plan.
Lion statue
Out of nowhere, a large golden turtle named Kim Quy rose above the waters. Facing the emperor, the turtle asked him to return the sword to the Dragon King.
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Understanding that the sword was a gift that had to be returned, Lê Lợi did as the magical turtle requested. To commemorate this event, the emperor changed the lake’s former name Lục Thủy (green water) into Hoàn Kiếm, the lake of the returned sword.
Red lacquered bridge
Besides the legendary renown of Lê Lợi and his victories, many aesthetic intrigues can be found around the lake.
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In the northeast corner of Hoàn Kiếm, a broad brick pathway leads towards a stunning red lacquered bridge.
White Tiger
At the foot of the paved path, a narrow stone wall sits on either side. Topped with coloured designs resembling temple roofing, the left wall is decorated with an elaborate white tiger on the front and a fish design on the back.
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On the right wall, a coloured dragon is curled in the air and hovering above the ocean. Its other side depicts cranes flying in the sky.
Built in 1865, the Pen Tower was made to resemble a pen
A narrow column flanks either wall; at the top sit small lion statues done up in orange and green, their bright eyes surveying the land for anything untoward. To the left of this grand entry point sits a sleek monolith.
Coloured dragon curled in the air
The aptly named Tháp Bút (“Pen Tower”) was designed to resemble a pen with its nib pointing to the sky. Built in 1865, the tower was commissioned by scholar Nguyen Van Sieu. Four metres tall, Tháp Bút is comprised of five sections.
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In its body, the words “Ta Thien Thanh”, meaning “Writing to the blue sky”, are emblematic of the harmony Sieu envisioned between nature and people. Tháp Bút sits on a rock pile, which represents the earth.
Thap But – Pen Tower
The brick lane leads to an ornate wooden bridge. At the end of the brick road sits the wooden bridge, named Cầu Thê Húc (the bridge where light is absorbed or welcoming the morning sunlight bridge), was another commission by Nguyen Van Sieu.
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Constructed in 1865, the design of the lacquered wooden structure is typical of the Nguyen dynasty. On the bridge, architects poetically labelled it with the words “the place where morning sunlight rests”.
Cau The Huc Bridge
Cau The Huc connects the bank to what is known as Jade Island. Home to the Confucian Dec Ngoc Son temple (the “Temple of the Jade Mountain”), towering trees shroud much of the complex.
In Vietnam, Confucianism can be considered a social philosophy. Introduced to the country during the early days of Chinese rule, it has maintained its influence since then.
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While Confucianism is without a strong formalized organisation in Vietnam, it provided the local culture with a highly organized hierarchical system wherein filial reverence is the primary duty.
Moon gazing pavilion
The entryway, called Đắc Nguyệt Lâu (moon gazing pavilion), is a square open construction. Above the passing point, a circular window opens to each cardinal point. The wall of each window is decorated with an opulent painted bird and Chinese calligraphy.
Dragon headed horse relief
Stepping inside the temple grounds, bougainvillaea blooms in sunset oranges, fuchsia pink and soft cream tones. Dragons and turtles are common motifs throughout the compound, as are phoenixes and turtles.
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Broad-leafed palm trees, daisies and frangipani trees snake through the perimeter and interior.
Turtle motif
An antechamber dedicated to general Trần Hưng Đạo, a war hero that defeated three hundred thousand Mongolian soldiers invading Vietnam in 1288, lies at the opposite end of the entrance.
Giant golden incense burner
In front of it sits a giant golden incense burner and precisely maintained bonsai trees. Stepping inside, visitors will come across statues of the god of literature, noted physician La To, and martial arts practitioner Quan Wu.
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Heading towards the exit, it is impossible to miss an impressive fountain replete with rock formations, a variety of lively plants, and statuettes that bring the scenery to life. In the dark waters, a family of koi glides along as their scales shimmer.
Fountain with Koi
As the sun sets and its light glimmers on the surface of the lake, the willow trees dotting the bank sway their branches to bid another day, farewell. Turtles swim in the murky waters, occasionally bobbing up their heads to the delight of all passers-by.
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Even as never-ending traffic goes on around the lake, Hoàn Kiếm exudes an unaffected serenity. No surprise that no matter the hour, there are always people flocking to its waters for a moment of peace.
Text & Photos Victoria Mae Martyn
