Hong Kong World War 2 battery sites fascinating not forgotten
High atop hills, these Hong Kong World War 2 battery sites are surrounded by nature
One of three war shelters, Inside Ling Fu Shan Country Park, 307 metres above sea level, Pinewood Battery
Hong Kong World War 2 Battery Sites
The history of Hong Kong World War 2 Battery Sites has its origins from the simmering tension leading up to World War 2.
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Through most of the nineteenth century, the British Empire was confident in its naval strength and relied little on coastal artillery.
Former battery, Mount Davis Peak
The Washington Naval Treaty, also known as the Five-Power Treaty, also helped ease concerns on this front.
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Signed in 1922 between the major allies from World War One, the agreement limited naval construction (referring to ships entry and coastal defence) as a means of avoiding an arms race.
As the soldiers destroyed much of the encampment before surrendering, the exterior is all that remains of the headquarters, Mount Davis Peak
But by 1930, Japan, then East Asia’s strongest power, was becoming increasingly expansionist as it sought out more territory in the region.
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When the treaty lapsed in 1936, Britain immediately went into action and began constructing battery sites on Hong Kong Island.
A small cubby within the headquarters, Mount Davis Peak, Westernmost edge of Hong Kong Island
Even with these major military projects, Hong Kong, then marked by rocky and barren hills, was still vulnerable to air attacks.
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Though the government had led a major effort to replant the city’s empty hills, with almost 30 percent of Hong Kong Island reforested by 1930, these efforts were hurriedly spent in that tumultuous decade.
An informative board summarizes the history of Mount Davis Battery upon entry
A rush of Mainland refugees and a shortage of fuel led to massive deforestation as a means of survival. By 1945, the hills were sparse and rocky.
Mount Davis Peak was an ideal site to protect Hong Kong Harbour
There was a danger of battery sites being easily located by enemy airplanes, but there was a bigger danger in not building them at all.
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Three classifications of battery sites existed – coast defence, heavy AA (anti-aircraft), and mobile artillery.
Nature steadily overtakes the former battery, Mount Davis Peak, Westernmost edge of Hong Kong Island
Of the fifty-two total battery sites that were constructed on Hong Kong Island, I visited four sites on Hong Kong Island that remain, in varying levels of preservation.
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Situated on the westernmost edge of Hong Kong Island, Mount Davis Peak was an ideal site to protect Hong Kong Harbour.
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In 1912, Fort Davis was constructed, and five 9.2-inch guns were installed – with large shells and long-range capabilities.
The former headquarters of the Western Fire Command, now overgrown with wild grass, small flowering bushes and trees, Mount Davis Peak, Westernmost edge of Hong Kong Island
During the mid-1930s, two of the guns were moved to Stanley to improve the defensive position of the island’s southern side.
Fort Davis Battery guns shelled enemy troops across the water
As the headquarters of the Western Fire Command, Fort Davis oversaw defending the western part of Hong Kong.
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Branching off from Victoria Road, Mount Davis Path is a well-paved concrete path, canopied by tall trees and broad-leaf palms that protect hikers from most of the direct sunlight.
A series of winding staircases lead to the ruins of Jubilee battery and a waterfront pavilion
When the situation in Kowloon seemed dire, the Fort Davis Battery guns shelled enemy troops across the water, allowing their comrades time to retreat. In retaliation, the site was heavily bombarded by the Japanese.
Before surrendering, the soldiers of Fort Davis destroyed the remaining armament and equipment.
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The site is now reasonably preserved, with five-gun emplacements, the Western Fire Command headquarters, ammunition stores and accommodation buildings.
Nature takes over the former ruins of Jubilee battery, with greenery thriving from the ground level to several metres above
Nature competes with the site, as frangipani, low-lying monstera, and trees grow within the former military compound.
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Located below Victoria Road, the former site of Jubilee Battery is now located directly behind The University of Chicago Francis and Rose Yuen Campus.
The wide, open pavilion built in memory of Jubilee Battery, located directly behind The University of Chicago Francis and Rose Yuen Campus
In the early 1900s, British troops held artillery practice at Jubilee. The site housed three 6-inch Mark VII guns.
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From 1898 to the 1950s, these were one of the preferred guns of the British navy for coastal defence, as they made for easier aim and rapid shooting.
The rounded interior of the outpost, the walls replastered with cement decades after the site was abandoned, Jubilee battery
Set on the coastline of Sandy Bay, Jubilee was one of many shore batteries that engaged with Japanese naval vessels, though they could not prevent soldiers from landing on the eastern part of Hong Kong Island.
The rocky shores of Sandy Bay
The site was bombed by enemy fire. To this day, some access paths are inaccessible due to soil erosion and damage incurred in the war.
Dense foliage surrounds the abandoned Jubilee battery
A large pavilion built in memory of the war provides a clear view of the passing ships on Sandy Bay.
To reach the site, I carefully walked down a staircase that took a serpentine approach to reach the coastline.
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En route, I caught sight of two small porcelain statues of local gods resting along the steep walkway.
Pinewood battery was intended for long-range attacks
Red ants and other unidentifiable insects crawled on the handrails, so I took extra care to avoid relying on the banister.
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Bamboo shoots existed in abundance, almost rivalling the surrounding trees in their height and numbers.
An outpost, concealed by the rocky cliffsides and dense foliage that surrounds it, has been renovated with a neatly tiled floor and pastel pink interior walls
Also set in the western side of Hong Kong Island, Pinewood Battery is more inland, set within Ling Fu Shan Country Park.
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Located 307 metres above sea level, Pinewood is the most well-maintained battery site on Hong Kong Island.
The no. 1 gun platform, serving as coastal defence, Pinewood Battery
Its high position meant that the site was intended for long-range attacks and was not prepared for close-range opposition.
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Pinewood battery was initially built as a coastal defence position, with the development of the first gun platform and the accompanying battery command post behind it.
Gun platform, serving as coastal defence, Pinewood Battery
When the battery was rebuilt in 1936, the anti-aircraft gun platform and its accompanying command post were constructed, along with the latrines, observation post and war shelters.
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Both gun platforms are circular in shape, the weapons mounted on a carriage set upon a centre pivot for broad range of motion.
The no. 2 gun platform, serving as anti-aircraft ammunition storage
Fitted with a BL 6-inch Mark VII gun each offered the terrifyingly impressive ability of firing eight rounds of 50 kg shells per minute at distances between 10,973 metres and 12,802 metres.
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To avoid the shock of recoil, a hydro-pneumatic system was incorporated in the mounting to absorb the shock of the gunfire.
Ruins of Pinewood Battery
During the battle for control of the New Territories and Kowloon, Pinewood was an active player in anti-aircraft defence for the city, fending off air and coastal attacks for the island and Victoria Harbour.
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When the Japanese gained control of Kowloon, Pinewood lost its value as an Island defensive position.
Path is lined with bamboo, Pinewood Battery
Kowloon’s hills had direct view of Pinewood, and the site was within shooting range of the Japanese army.
On 15 December 1941, Pinewood was heavily shelled by the 14th Independent Heavy Field Army Regiment of the Japanese army.
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Gunners were forced to abandon the position. Despite the damage incurred, Pinewood was largely unaffected by the war and the ravages of time.
Remnants of Pinewood Battery
On my trip, many hikers exchanged polite greetings with me, and I came across one middle-aged man practicing his golf swing on the long open walkway from one end of the battery to the other.
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On the south-eastern side of Hong Kong Island was Sai Wan Battery. Built in 1906, Sai Wan was originally considered an unnecessary surplus.
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It was only in the 1920s that the location was repurposed and converted into an anti-aircraft battery. As such, two 3-inch anti-aircraft guns were installed.
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Though Japanese warplanes had repeatedly bombed the battery site before landing on Hong Kong Island, Japanese warplanes were reportedly shot down by Sai Wan guns.
Abandoned pavilion, Pinewood Battery
When the Japanese attacked Hong Kong Island on 18 December 1941, the 6th company of the 2nd battalion advanced in two directions – towards the Lei Yue Mun barracks and the Sai Wan Battery.
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Just thirty minutes after landing, the Japanese troops reached the Sai Wan Battery, unanticipated by the battery guards.
A pavilion and barbeque area located behind the battery
Six gunners were killed in the ambush. Twenty more were taken prisoner, and thirty managed to escape.
The Japanese troops continued their attack on the island the next day. After eighteen days of stiff resistance, (8-25 December 1941) the battle of Hong Kong was over.
The black-speckled Bush Hopper
Sir Mark Young, then governor of Hong Kong, declared the unconditional surrender of the British crown colony on 25 December 1941.
This marked the beginning of the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong, which lasted three years and eight months.
Approach to Sai Wan Hill, Sai Wan Battery
Japanese takeover of the city was swift and severe. From the start, there was little chance of Hong Kong’s garrison, 13,500 strong, to successfully battle the Japanese force of 40,000 soldiers.
The Japanese army destroyed many defences in Kowloon and Hong Kong Island.
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The challenging terrain and small size of Hong Kong Island did nothing to help its defenders, as enemy aircraft usually passed through the island and disappeared behind one of the numerous hills that dotted the environment.
The interior of the barred barracks, Sai Wan Battery
When World War 2 came to an end, Hong Kong, like many other cities worldwide, began the slow healing process.
In the 1960s, most plantations in Hong Kong Island were comprised of single species such as Chinese red pines and exotic trees, which could quickly settle and improve soil conditions.
Porcelain-white orchids attached to a local tree
By the 1980s, the government expanded reforestation to include native species that worked to benefit the overall ecology.
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Now, Hong Kong is well regarded for its environmental efforts and the conservation of historical landmarks, such as the remains of the battery sites.
The view of Junk Bay from Sai Wan Hill, Sai Wan Battery, South-east side of Hong Kong Island
Though the battle for Hong Kong was brief, the bravery of the soldiers and citizens that endured it is respected in the city’s efforts to preserve the past and the nature that surrounds it for future generations.
Rose myrtle, native to south and southeast Asia
Hong Kong World War 2 battery sites are fascinating reminders of the city’s most difficult times and of a fierce battle that should not be forgotten.
Text & Photos Victoria Mae Martyn
