Madame Fù Grand Café Chinois (1)
Madame Fù Grand Café Chinois (2)
Madame Fù Grand Café Chinois (3)
Madame Fù Grand Café Chinois (4)
Madame Fù Grand Café Chinois (5)
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A romanticised retelling of Chinese and colonial history

As a birthday treat, my wife and I made reservations for a leisurely lunch at Madame Fù’s. The restaurant encompasses all 8,000 square feet of the third floor of the 1850s colonial Barrack Building in Tai Kwun, the Former Central Police Station Compound. We chose a table on the veranda overlooking the former police parade ground and promptly ordered a pot of Fujian Jasmine tea. As we relaxed seated at a marble table in matching plush velvet sofas, comfortable under high ceiling fans, and sipping exquisite tea from white porcelain cups, it did not take too much to imagine what it might have been like to dine well in the colonial era.

The staff provided unhurried service as we proceeded to try all the offered dim sum items on the single-paged menu, one item at a time. The steamed items were presented in traditional bamboo baskets while the fried foods were brought out on handcrafted grey and white ceramic plates. We each had a tri-sectioned dish of orange, yellow, and brown hot sauces that alongside our white and black chopsticks had the appearance of watercolour paints and brushes. This was appropriate, because the setting with food was a worthy subject of a still-life painting.

The standout dish was the delicious and delicate Assorted Mushroom and Black Truffle Dumplings. The subtle flavour of black truffle complements that of the mushrooms and the translucent wrapping was both pleasing to look at and effective at holding it all together until the moment I bit into it. All of the various types of steamed dumplings were skilfully pleated, decoratively presented, and satisfying to eat. The Char Siu Bao, (barbeque pork bun), and the Har Gao (shrimp dumplings) standard items at every dim sum sitting were as good as any I have eaten at other fine Chinese restaurants.

Text Martin Wray / Photos Cammy Yiu