Pak Tai Temple genuine place to the people of faith and spirituality
Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven at Pak Tai Temple
Pak Tai Temple for seeking protection
When seeking protection from natural disasters, look to the night sky and visit Pak Tai Temple.
Specifically seek Pak Tai, Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven.
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Especially worshipped by people in China’s southern regions, he protects against flood waters from the north.
Born a mortal like the rest of us, Pak Tai (also known as Yuen Tin Sheung Tai) initially began life as a prince in the Shang dynasty (approximately 1776-1046 BC) before being uplifted to deity status.
As the largest of six temples in Hong Kong dedicated to the worship of Pak Tai, the Wan Chai Pak Tai Temple (or Yuk Hui Kung) is a monument to the perseverance of local faith and spirituality through the centuries.
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Tucked away in the backstreets of Hong Kong’s Wan Chai district, the temple is a site of ongoing cultural and historical significance.
Modern explorers of the Wan Chai district may be hard-pressed to guess the origin of its name.
Literally meaning cove, much of modern Hong Kong is the result of land reclamation, the process of creating new land by filling the chosen sea area with heavy rock or cement, clay and soil.
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As one of the earliest developed areas on Hong Kong Island, the district was first called Ha Wan (bottom ring or lower circuit), as it was locally known as one of the four rings of Hong Kong.
Wan Chai district
The remaining rings, which still exist today, were Central (centre ring), Sheung Wan (upper ring), and Sai Wan (western ring).
Originally home to fishermen during the British Colonial era (1841-1997), Wan Chai grew as both a Chinese residential area and dockyard for shipbuilding and repairs.
Sometime during the city’s post-World War II development, Wan Chai underwent reclamation and redevelopment efforts that shaped it into the bustling residential-commercial area it is now.
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Construction of Wan Chai Pak Tai Temple began during the first year of the Tongzhi reign (1862) during the Qing dynasty.
Completed in 1863, the two-hall, three-bay vernacular structure is designed in the contemporary Qing style.
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The temple comprises a main building with annexes on either side. Its entirety is made of grey bricks, granite and timber, reminiscent of traditional buildings that frequent Chinese calligraphy paintings.
Qing-styled Pak Tai Temple
Interestingly, the year of the temple’s completion is inscribed on a ridge purlin located in the entrance hall, a characteristic rarely seen in Hong Kong’s traditional Chinese buildings.
As visitors walk up to the temple, their eyes are treated with visual feasts.
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Small, carved stone lions sit atop the iron fence that lines the perimeter, guarding the temple from untoward spirits.
Beautiful, handcrafted murals enliven the temple exterior, depicting scenes from Chinese folk stories and everyday life. Peaches and scholars are common motifs, as are tigers and lotuses.
The temple roof, tiled in red glazed ceramic, is ornately embellished with spiralling dragons, clusters of scholars and jumping koi fish.
The interior is just as stunning, if not more. Photography is prohibited within the temple, so I carefully committed the scene to memory.
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Above the temple doorframe sits a granite lintel. Elaborately carved and coloured in gold, the characters for Yuk Hui Temple are framed in red and grey.
Stepping inside, the entire space is bathed in warm light. A fine mist lingers throughout, courtesy of the lit joss sticks that line the incense pavilion in the centre of the room.
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More incense sits at the feet of a towering statue. At three metres in height, Pak Tai’s bronze figure is robed in a fine outfit.
Careful observers will notice a curious inscription at the hem of the robes, marking the thirty-first year of the Wanli reign (1603).
A tortoise and serpent, which reflect Pak Tai’s origin story, are trodden under his feet as symbols of righteousness triumphing over evil.
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After paying tribute to Pak Tai, visitors heading to the left annex step into the Hall of Lung Mo (dragon mother) and the Hall of the God of Wealth.
Lotus lanterns constructed in colourful fabrics line the walls, as well as fai chun – traditional Chinese papers emblazoned with handwritten gold calligraphy of auspicious phrases.
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Prior to its current use, in the 1950s, the left annex served as a communal hall for the St. James’ Settlement Boys’ and Girls’ Club.
Hall of Three Treasures
The annex on the right side of the temple, which is now the Hall of Three Treasures and the keeper’s quarters, similarly served a different function in earlier years when it was the location of a local school.
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Who is Pak Tai? Going back three millennia, Pak Tai began life as a Chinese prince. But destiny had other plans.
Following the fall of the Shang dynasty, the Demon King wreaked havoc upon the world. As a noteworthy martial figure, Pak Tai was noticed by the Taoist Primeval Deity, Yuanshi Tianzun.
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At the Primeval Deity’s behest, the Jade Emperor appointed the mortal Pak Tai as commander of twelve heavenly legions to defeat the scourge.
In retaliation, the Demon King summoned a gigantic tortoise and serpent to attack the soldiers. After gruelling attacks, Pak Tai eventually arose victorious.
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Following his success, Pak Tai was bestowed with the title of Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven.
Associated with the northern stars and the sea, Pak Tai is revered for his courage and strength.
Since his victory over the Demon King, Pak Tai has also become associated with water, and he is considered a guardian against water-related risks and dangers related to sea voyages.
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Wan Chai Pak Tai temple still stands as a local monument, declared as such in 2019. The grade-one historical building remains active.
Nestled between high- and mid-rise complexes, residents and visitors alike come in and out of the temple – whether to pay tribute to Pak Tai, provide offerings, admire the architecture, or fawn over the temple cats (identical tan and umber cats that, if not for their unique collars, I would have been unable to differentiate).
Pak Tai Temple is pillar for community
From Hong Kong’s early history as a fishing and trading port to its current metropolitan status, Wan Chai Pak Tai Temple remains an integral community pillar.
While the landscape has changed, the people’s needs remain the same. Whether religiously or spiritually inclined, the temple is well-regarded and cared for.
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Even as the storefronts in the surrounding area change, I do not doubt that the residents of Wan Chai district will continue paying respect at Pak Tai Temple.
Text and photos Victoria Mae Martyn
