Surprising opportunities & reasons to visit Thailand markets
Fun and adventures found at Thailand markets
Return to Thailand markets
I recently had occasion to spend time and to visit Thailand markets, long after first stepping foot in Bangkok in the late 1980s and later taking up residence in Phuket.
If you’ve lived in another country, you know what it’s like to navigate the ins and outs of the local culture and leave the tourists to discover the cool stuff in their Lonely Planet guides.
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So, several decades later and with a few extra days in my itinerary, I decided to go the tourist route and see what I’d been missing by visiting Thailand markets.
Chao Phraya River
There hadn’t been a rapid transit Skytrain in my time as the city’s BTS only began operations in 1999, and so, on rapid transit, the Hop-On Hop-Off bus, dodging traffic on foot and skimming along the Chao Phraya River in a long-tail boat, I visited some of Bangkok’s most iconic sites.
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From the majestic Wat Arun to the dancing fountains at ICON SIAM and the grandeur of the Grand Palace to the King Power Mahanakhom’s Skywalk, I enjoyed full and wonderful days in a diverse and chaotic city.
And the floating market that was a big draw all those decades ago?
Well, apparently, it still is, so I signed up for a day tour to go out to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market.
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
As it was an hour or more outside of the city, I thought it would be overlooked by the throngs… and apparently, so did a thousand others!
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With Thailand markets and specifically this market featured in the 1974 James Bond movie The Man with the Golden Gun, its fame continues to lure the masses, and I was about to become one of them.
Thailand markets paddling peddlers
As we all disembarked from the bus and were herded en masse to the banks of the river, it reminded me why I am not a tour group aficionado.
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We clambered onto wooden boats and set off with the boatmen deftly manoeuvring through water traffic that had backed up in both directions, and found ourselves in the congested shopping district surrounded by paddling peddlers.
Boat women and men
Upon reflection, a captive audience was likely good for business and quite possibly, intentional.
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On the bright side, the stall in movement allowed time to absorb the lively ambience, picturesque with boat women selling mounds of tropical fruit while stationary vessels were laden with wooden bowls, embroidered handbags and shimmering gilt statues for sale.
Judging by the flurry of transactions, business was brisk and a shopper’s paradise, much like all of Thailand’s markets.
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I was momentarily startled when we bobbed past a solitary woman perched on a platform with a giant cobra casually slung around her neck and draped down either side of her body – a unique photo opportunity for those so inclined (not!).
Irresistible treats
Like a magnet, it was impossible not to be drawn to the vendors offering mouthwatering mounds of coconut ice cream – an irresistible treat in the growing heat.
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It was just past the floating hive of activity that the river became tranquil, and the flurry quelled.
Disembarking from our boat and led by the aroma of Thai crispy pancakes sizzling on a grill, I couldn’t resist the swoon-worthy, puffed coconut shells that, following each crispy bite, melted in my mouth.
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Served in a banana leaf folded into the shape of a boat, it was an ever-so-quaint way to munch on the snack while strolling along the wooden boardwalk.
From the vantage point of a pedestrian bridge and looking downriver, I spied another more authentic version of a floating market.
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Catering to locals, there were boats providing staples and snacks to barefoot customers while floating kitchens served bowls of fragrant broth from large cooking pots with shrimp, eggs, noodles and mystery spices, Thai magic, port side.
Floating kitchen Thai magic
Pots of vibrant flowers and clothes hanging on the balconies of wooden houses set a peaceful ambience and brought a sense of calm.
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The contrast in activity from one side of the bridge to the other was palpable and gave pause to savour the moment and to appreciate being woven into the tapestry of my own personal slideshow.
The Maeklong Railway Market is a hoot; truly unique. What is remarkable is that while it has become an attraction on the tourist circuit, it’s primarily a destination for local Thais who come for the fresh seafood and produce.
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Set along a hundred meters of railway tracks and crammed with shops, racks and bins, the market is referred to as the life-risking market, given the trains that run through eight times a day come within inches of vendors, their merchandise and their customers.
While balancing on the rails as I slowly made my way along the track, a faint whistle of the approaching train alerted everyone to its impending arrival.
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It was thrilling to witness the flurry of activity as dozens of vendors in a choreographed scramble removed supporting poles from the swaths of protective awnings and heaved them back from the edge.
In the ensuing flurry of activity, hordes of us scrambled off the railway and crammed together, pressed back against any solid structure we could find to prevent being grazed by the oncoming train.
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It was literally neck craning to avoid a nose or cheek being brushed by the slow-moving passenger car as stomachs were sucked in and heads flattened back… and for ten long seconds, the train passed by with mere inches to spare.
Maeklong Railway Market
No sooner had the commotion subsided than the vendors scampered back into action, and the protective awnings, umbrellas and canopies were hauled back into place.
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In mere moments, the marketgoers were once again teetering on the uneven ground and tripping over the railroad while trawling for treasures. Slightly surreal.
While decompressing from the excitement of the close encounter, I wandered to the far end of the market, where I was greeted by a series of street kitchens and a foodie paradise.
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The grilled squid, skewered prawns and fried fish sent up plumes of smoke in a mishmash of aromas that hovered over pans of crispy oyster omelettes, steamed noodles and bubbling vats of dumplings.
Completely immersed in the local culture with a dizzying combination of street food smells, smoke and steam, I processed risking my life with a serving of sweet mango and sticky rice drizzled in thick coconut cream… while awaiting the next train.
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I saved the infamous Chatuchak, the world’s largest weekend market, for my last day in Bangkok.
With 15,000 stalls divided into twenty-seven sections, I could wander to my heart’s content, one of 200,000 weekend warriors.
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Give me an amazing market, a sunny day and a throng of jostling meanderers, and I am in heaven.
I don’t even have to buy anything; simply savour the unique, embrace the singular and delight in the myriads of treasures.
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Wandering through a market of this size is like diving into a trove of eclectic finds, each twist and turn revealing something more curious and unexpected than the last.
I knew I had crushed it when I stumbled across a vendor selling hand-painted clothing and came away with a unique pair of paint-splattered black denim overalls, a score!
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And in a double whammy, I happened across display racks of quirky and colourful accessories, and when I saw the hand-crafted necklace dripping with 3D leather flower petals, I knew I had another score!
Like I said, I don’t need to buy anything, but it feels oh so good to clinch an amazing find!
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Clutching my treasures, I continued to traipse through the narrow walkways and breezy open areas, taking in the displays of ornate cutlery, vintage clothing, colourful ceramics, silk scarves and eclectic art.
Food stands were interspersed throughout my walkabout, and the frying, grilling, and steaming created a cacophony of sounds and smells; it was impossible not to be transfixed by the sheer visual creativity spawned from a wok or a charcoal grill.
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The magic of Thailand markets was so much more than the tangible artefacts and edible goods; it was about the crowds, the playful ambience and being part of something bigger.
Market excursions have a way of heightening the senses, an interchange that transcends language and culture.
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It’s why I love Thailand markets and added the Thai Floating, Railway and Chatuchak to my list of new faves in Bangkok.
Text and photos Elaine Crebo
