Tung Chung Fort First Direct Line Of Defence From Really Fearless Pirates
Old Tung Chung Fort Becomes Community Anchor
Tung Chung Fort entry to Pearl River Delta
Tung Chung Fort as an entryway to the Pearl River Delta, Hong Kong witnessed a bustling maritime trade – and where there is trade, there are people eager to plunder.
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Where high-rise complexes now stand, shores were once vulnerable to pirate attacks.
Over eight centuries ago, Tung Chung Fort rose in defence against smugglers and pirates who threatened this vital trade route.
Soldiers from Canton guarded the area from pirates
Established on high ground, its cannons aimed at the sea, the fort’s story stretches far beyond its initial purpose. From fortress to police station, from rural committee office to school, its weathered stones whisper tales of constant transformation.
This is not just a monument to the past but a vibrant testament to adaptability, evolving from vigilant protector to community anchor; each chapter etched in its weathered stones.
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The initial structure, known as the naval headquarters of the Right Battalion of Dapeng, dates to the Shun Hei era (1174–1189) of the Southern Song dynasty. Back then, the fort housed soldiers from Canton (modern-day Guangzhou) who were there to guard the area from pirates.
The fort’s structure, as it now stands, is part of a nineteenth-century reconstruction effort. This aligns with the tumultuous final years of the Qing dynasty when pirates beset Lantau.
Infamous pirate Cheung Po Tsai used the bay as a base
Infamous pirate Cheung Po Tsai, commanding a 600-ship fleet and 20,000-strong army, used Tung Chung Bay as his base, including Tung Chung Fort. When Cheung Po Tsai surrendered in 1810, the Qing government recovered and reconstructed the fort in 1832.
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With the British takeover of the New Territories in 1898, Tung Chung Fort was abandoned and entered a period of decline. Back then, the fort comprised of little more than the exterior wall, watchtowers and garrison.
Japanese forces during World War II
The fort saw renewed use during World War II when the invading Japanese forces occupied it, but their departure left it once again exposed to the elements.
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Later, the site found new purposes. It functioned as a police station. Then, in 1948, Wa Ying College, displaced by the Chinese Civil War, relocated from mainland China and used it as a school until 1963.
Tung Chung Fort declared monument
Half a dozen single-story buildings were constructed during this period; most are now abandoned.
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In 1979, Tung Chung Fort was declared a monument and nine years later, it was refurbished, becoming the site for the Tung Chung Rural Committee Office. A rectangular, one-storey structure, its roof designed in the likeness of local temples, was built in the middle of the training grounds for the committee’s use.
Tung Chung Fort was later transformed into a local primary school, and the school’s main office was built beside the rural committee building. After the school closed in 2003, Tung Chung Fort has served as a local historical site.
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These days, it is open to the public for exploration and learning about its rich history as a defence post, police station, school, and more.
History slowly revealed with each stone
Walking through Tung Chung Fort, I feel time shimmering, like heat waves rising off asphalt. Dense foliage, the result of neglect punctuated by bursts of purpose, has swallowed much of the structure.
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Each stone reveals its history – new additions stand sleek and straight, while the original segments jut organically, echoing the hands that laid them.
The entire parapet wall, weathered and exposed, stretches before me, a walkway open to the sky. Chinese characters whisper secrets from arched gateways, each entrance once manned by vigilant eyes.
Six cannons rest like slumbering giants, their metal bodies anchored by concrete and granite.
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Standing beside the now-rusted cannons, I wonder about the now densely crowded waterfront that used to be a broad expanse of sea and air and the training drills that must have taken place in the fort’s courtyard so many years ago.
The back of the fort is now lost to greenery. Vines cloak the walkway, transforming potential threats into mesmerising beauty. Broad-faced veli tuberous bloom in impressive clusters, low and verdant against the stone.
Quiet beauty and future promises
Traces of the school linger – a faded yellow tool shed, its blue door a canvas for sun-bleached vines. Inside, papaya saplings stretch towards the light, and a young banyan whisper promises of future shade.
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Blue doors tilted at odd angles speak of a forgotten order. Unused tiles, gathering dust in quiet disappointment, mourn an unrealised dream of uniformity.
A metal pot and forgotten incense sticks hint at silent prayers in a space once echoing with the warmth of the kitchen. Changing rooms hold the ghosts of laughter, their rusty chairs stacked high while vibrant festival flags adorn an abandoned corner.
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Yet, in the heart of the fort, remnants of more vibrant days flicker. Faded pennants dance between archways, their festive spirit suggesting celebrations from decades past. The vast concrete space, silent now, hums with the memory of a thousand nights – soldiers drilling, children playing.
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Today, Tung Chung Fort stands as a local historical site. It tells the story of pirates and soldiers, students and community leaders, each chapter etched in its weathered stones.
The fort’s reconstruction efforts continue, suggesting potential future uses beyond simply being a historical site. While specific plans haven’t been confirmed, possibilities include a new art space, community centre or museum.
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Like a forgotten path, overgrown but still leading to a new destination, it is a renewal that goes beyond mere preservation.
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Inspired by the success stories of Tai Kwun and Cattle Depot, I hope to see a future where Tung Chung Fort transcends its current role, enriching the present while safeguarding its unique legacy.
Tung Chung Fort future unsure
The exact path remains unwritten, but one thing is certain: this resilient landmark, infused with whispers of the past and brimming with the promise of the future, is poised for its next exciting chapter.
Text & photos by Victoria Mae Martyn
