Stunning Tromso Remarkable scenery at the edge of the world
Tromso the northernmost city in Norway
Local graffiti artists add a modern twist to downtown
Tromso the place to watch the Northern Lights
Despite its moniker as the Paris of the North, not many people know about Tromso. Located in Norway, Tromso has the distinction of being the northernmost city in Norway.
Harbour between the city of Tromso and the mainland
A perfect place to watch the Northern Lights in the winter, yes, but what can this small city, with a population just under 42,000, offer in the summertime? Plenty!
The city centre balances its traditional and modern architecture, giving visitors the sense of walking through time.
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Mouth-watering cuisine made us anxious to eat our next meal. The lush, wild landscape brings to mind warm imaginings of Moominvalley (an idyllic, pastoral cartoon series created by Swedish-speaking Finnish writer and illustrator Tove Jansson).
Tromso’s main pedestrian street, Storgata
Over six days, we were enamoured by near-constant daylight and felt embraced by the openhearted spirit of the Norwegians, So much so that by the end, we were seriously considering a winter visit.
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Local cuisine is often the heart of a culture; in Tromso, seafood dishes are the order of the day. It’s no wonder.
Besides being located next to the Norwegian Sea, numerous rivers and freshwater lakes are scattered across the surrounding area.
Graffiti artists add a modern twist to local architecture
Fishing was so prolific that, in the nineteenth century, it was known as the gateway to the Arctic. Aquaculture and fisheries continue to be an essential industry in Tromso.
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It remains northern Norway’s largest fishing port and has become an academic centre for marine research.
Aquaculture and fisheries essential industry
On our first night in the city, we wandered around the square, looking for an authentic Norwegian restaurant. Immediately opting against McDonald’s and Chinese food, a humble sign bearing the phrase Nyt (Norwegian for enjoy) won us over.
An inactive water tower, which has long since been replaced by a bigger one located elsewhere
Much as we wanted to indulge in unique delicacies, we were still tourists, and our order came out as a mixed bag of hyped food and genuine local dishes.
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Reindeer tacos, corn tortillas piled with seasoned reindeer meat, lingonberry cream, pickled onion, and cornflakes, were surprisingly vibrant.
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While eating his tacos, our friend noted they tasted much like beef. “But,” he shrugged, “we’re on vacation.”
Reindeer tacos
Our other friend, who ordered a reindeer burger, enjoyed the half he ate. The other half met its untimely end, falling to the ground as his baby daughter flung her arms at him.
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The pan-fried halibut did not disappoint. Delicately seared, the fish split like melted butter at the slightest touch. Celeriac purée balanced the flavour profile, and brown butter paired brilliantly with the potatoes and broccolini.
Feasting on clams, shrimp, cod, and, of course, fish soup
The homemade fish soup looked hearty and high-class all at once. It was creamy and comprised of diced halibut and shrimp.
Pan-fried halibut
A crudité of fennel introduced a welcome sharpness to the dish. Bread and butter were welcome sides to help gather the last bits of soup. Waste not, want not!
We were warned about the high prices of dining out in Norway and were prepared, but we were delightfully surprised to find that the prices were comparable to what we’d expect in Hong Kong.
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So, we had no trouble eating like kings for the remainder of our stay, feasting on fresh mussels, shrimp, cod, and, of course, fish soup.
A bowl of fresh mussels
A small sandwich board ad introduced us to the local music culture. If I had blinked, I would have missed it.
While making our way to meet our friends for lunch, we passed by the advertisement in big, bold letters stating MIDNIGHT CONCERT at Tromso Cathedral.
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Built in 1861, Norway’s only wooden cathedral is distinctly set in the middle of the city. Coloured with a warm, pale yellow, the church entrance is situated under the bell tower.
The church park and Tromso Cathedral
When I returned to the cathedral a few evenings later, I was struck by its simple sincerity.
While many Western European cathedrals are monuments to artistry as much as religion, the unaffected decor gave the cathedral an air of humble solemnity.
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Sitting throughout the pews, audience members had no trouble quietly waiting for the performance to begin.
Classic elegance within Tromsø Cathedral
A single illustration, a copy of Adolph Tidemand’s Resurrection, is the altar’s central decoration.
On either side of the portrait stand stained-glass interpretations of Jesus and the cross, their presence emphasising the gravity of the painting instead of taking away from it.
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The concert was a haunting experience. I listened intently as the singer belted out Norwegian hymns of romance and hardships, her voice echoing through the walls.
The singer’s haunting soprano rang through the building
The saxophonist’s tenor harmonised perfectly with her soprano, and the pianist’s gentle tunes sounded like gentle breezes flowing in from the ocean.
Midnight concert at Tromso Cathedral
Too soon, the concert ended. When I left the cathedral, I couldn’t help but laugh. Even though it was nearing one in the morning, the sky was alive and shimmering in pink and orange pastels.
Classic and modern ships line the harbour
Blessed by our cathedral experience, we were not accosted by trolls on our late-night walk back to the hotel, but if the Troll Museum is to be trusted, this was not a certainty.
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Norway’s trolls are not as Disney would have you believe. As Norse people traditionally live in small, isolated villages, much of their lore revolves around what hides in the surrounding wilderness.
A neat collection of alder trees dot either side of the walkway
Trolls are not magical do-gooders but malicious beings that enchant and kidnap people. No terrain is safe from trolls – or other mythical creatures.
For instance, a draug, an incarnation of those tormented spirits lost at sea, take on otherworldly dimensions in their cursed second life.
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Their heads are engulfed in seaweed, their limbs elongated to unnatural proportions, and their call sounds like the terrible cries of distressed people. To answer one of their calls is to bet with your life, for they capsize every encountered boat.
Wild mushrooms
The mountain troll is the most prolific of the many mythical beings you can come across in Norway. Said to have descended from primordial gods, mountain trolls are fur-covered and (possibly) many-headed.
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Despite their seclusion in the mountains, they have learned avarice and greedily hoard immense treasures of gems and gold and are constantly looking for more. Their strength is horrifying, bearing the ability to crack boulders in half. But in the sun, there is salvation.
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If you find yourself pursued by a mountain troll, hide until the first rays of dawn, as sunlight will turn it instantly to stone.
Decommissioned shipyard architecture
Those protective rays also provide for comfortable summer days, but compared to other northern cities, Tromso is uncommonly warm.
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This is thanks to the Gulf Stream’s water-warming effect, which makes this coastal climate milder than its peers. And that bodes well for its summers – the weather is comfortable even for us Hong Kongers!
So, in little more than trousers and t-shirts, we follow our local friend into the forest to admire the natural landscape.
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The sheer amount of moss and berry bushes immediately struck me. After our friend initially taught us how to identify ripe berries, I straggled at the back of the group to grab a handful of sustenance now and then.
Wild blueberries
Ripe and with the perfect amount of surface tension, it was satisfying to make them pop as I chewed. I was surprised by the abundance of alder trees, which I initially mistook for birch.
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At first glance, they do look similar – ashy bark stripped back here and there, wispy branches that shiver at a slight breeze. But upon closer inspection, these trees had rounded leaves – birches have pointed ones.
And to my amazement, the trees showed a clear history of rough winds and resilience. Many were bent at odd angles, still moving upwards against all odds.
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Taking a detour through a local fishpond (Fiskeparken), we all thought it should be renamed andedammen for all the ducks (the seagulls and pigeons were clearly just visiting).
On our visit to Fiskeparken, we saw no fish ‒ but plenty of ducks!
Admittedly, some of us were very excited by the ducks. The youngest of us even ran to the end of the barge, arms spread out, only for the confused seagulls and pigeons to squall and flap away.
That wasn’t me – I was the one screaming “DUCK” every five minutes and taking more pictures of ducks than I care to admit.
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We even tried to follow a wild cat, but our group leader cautioned us to return to the prescribed track as the cat wandered into the tall grass.
Tromso’s ski ramp, Grønnåsen hoppsenter, with a 72-metre length
Of all the available summer tourist spots, only the ski jump was a surprise. But it was worth the walk-up.
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From the waiting area at the top of the ski jump, we had a clear view of Tromso in its entirety. We took turns pointing out every one of its physical landmarks.
By the time our live game of I Spy was done, the sunlight had dimmed slightly, and we needed to get back to the city proper for dinner.
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During our last night’s dinner, we all agreed that Tromso’s unique blend of natural beauty, rich culture, and warm hospitality has captured our hearts.
The city view from an off-season ski ramp
From the mouthwatering seafood to the enchanting midnight concerts, each experience was rewarding.
While summer offers its own magic, every local we interacted with declared that the festive winter season was Tromso at its best.
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With reindeer and dog sled rides, Aurora borealis, ice fishing, and polar bear sightings, this Norwegian city located sixty-nine degrees north has much to offer year-round.
Text & Photos Victoria Mae Martyn
