Myths and magic of Dogs Teeth Range and Tiger Roar
Hong Kong’s most challenging hikes, Dogs Teeth Range and Tiger’s Roar Rock River are as beautiful as the journey is difficult
A cool mist rolls over the mountaintops
Dogs Teeth Range is not for the faint-hearted
The fable of Dogs Teeth Range: Of the twelve Chinese zodiacs, the tiger and the dog (third and eleventh in order, respectively) took different strategies in the mythical story of the Heavenly Gate Race.
Shek Pik Reservoir from the hiking trail
To honour the Jade Emperor’s birthday, all animals that wanted to take part in the race had to make their way to the Heavenly Gate, a route that included crossing a perilous river.
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While both animals are supposedly good swimmers, the currents were a worthy opponent for the tiger. Ever determined to win a high position, the tiger pulled itself through the strong currents.
A blossoming rose myrtle
For his perseverance, he was awarded the higher rank of the third year of the zodiac. Were it not for the animal’s playful nature – choosing to frolic about and bathe in the river – the dog could have managed a position above the eleventh year.
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Even still, perfectly clean from his river bath, the dog won a place as a zodiac animal. In broader strokes of Chinese mythology, the dog is an animal most typically associated with loyalty, a companion and sidekick of sorts to humanity.
A staircase of boulder smoothed by decades of hikers
The tiger, by contrast, is at once feared and admired. Admired for its intelligence, ferocity and beauty, the symbol of the tiger bears mythic proportions, believed to ward off evil and disease.
It is amusing then, that on a hiking trail inside Lantau South Country Park, a tiger’s roar is forever captured between a dog’s sharp teeth.
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Perched at a dizzying 539 metres above sea level, Kau Nga Ling is not for the faint-hearted. Colloquially termed “Dogs Teeth Range”, the mountainous ridges are marked by three especially sharp points – West Dog Teeth, Middle Dog Teeth and East Dog Teeth.
Thick tree roots cut through the trail
Docile and well-intentioned as dogs are in mythical and modern thought, Kau Nga Ling is not a hike for the casual climber.
Kau Nga Ling is one of most challenging hikes in Hong Kong
Dense foliage, loose boulders, shifting dirt and narrow pathways mark the area as one of the most dangerous hiking trails in Hong Kong.
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Every move must be calculated and conducted with absolute certainty. It is in hesitancy that things can take a sudden turn.
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In late November 2017, a 69-year-old man, while on a hiking trip with friends, took on the challenge of climbing up one of the area’s most notoriously difficult ridges.
The view of West Dog’s Teeth, Tiger Roar Rock River and Middle Dog’s Teeth from East Dog’s Teeth
The risk proved more than he could manage, and he fell down a distance of approximately thirty metres.
Understanding the potential risks associated with this day trip, I opted to go solo to avoid the challenges of minding a group.
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The journey began at the entrance to the Lantau Shek Pik Country Trail. Starting with a natural feel of a gentle incline with tree roots demarcating separate steps, the path soon gave way to flat boulders specifically fitted to form a neat staircase.
The adventure begins with steep concrete steps
Then there was a narrow concrete staircase – simple in design, there were no handrails on either side – that barely provided room enough for one person to walk on it. This staircase seemed to be the visual representation of the word “steep”.
The top of a precariously steep stairwell
With each step, I was mindful of my breathing and kept my eyes down, only focusing on the steps immediately in front of me so as not to lose motivation.
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Chopped logs had sat at the foot of this sharp walkway, and I absently wondered after the log cutter who had abandoned the fruits of his labour.
An abandoned heap of logs
Once the staircase was conquered, as if in reward, the path sloped to an easy curve, a simple road of sun-bleached dirt that moseyed along beside the mountain. When the respite ended, the real work began.
Boulders of varying shapes and sizes mixed into the scenery, with scattered pebbles to make for an even trickier situation.
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To lower my centre of gravity and minimize the risk of slipping, I lowered myself to all fours and imagined myself as a squirrel cleverly making my way up the jagged terrain.
Dust, pebbles and dirt make this section of the trail a challenge to conquer
To reach Tiger Roar Rock River, located between the East and West Dog Teeth, I went right when the Shek Pik Country Trail came to a crossroads.
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The path continuing to my destination was marked by a sign warning of the dangers up ahead. I followed a kindly middle-aged couple up the route.
Every so often, we passed by a tree garlanded with colourful ribbons to assure hikers that they were still on the correct path.
Uniform leaves of the Indian gooseberry
Indian gooseberry, vibrant green and many-leaved in each branch, grow in abundance at ground level. India Hawthorne grows at knee-length and above, the delicate white leaves shockingly pure.
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Rock faces protruding from mountains take on the shapes of tigers and trolls, mythical guardians watching over the lush territory.
A cluster of Indian Hawthorne
Once the Shek Pik Reservoir disappeared from view, the small bays of Shui Hau Wan and Tong Fuk Miu Wan, located side by side, appeared to the right. At the first official black and white marker, the area was flat enough to allow for a few hikers to rest at a time.
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A cool breeze, welcomed by all, passed through as the sun was briefly covered by passing clouds. To my left and directly in front of me, a cool fog rolled over the serrated geography, making the volcanic rocks that rose to form this landscape greatly resemble classical Chinese portraits that capture the serenity of nature.
Green leaves take root in front of a boulder
I saw Tiger Roar Rock River well before I reached it, a gaping vertical drop comprised of piercing rocks that are stinging to the sight.
Tiger Roar is intimidating like the creature it is named after
So named for the thunderous sound the rocks make when they fall, even when it is still, Tiger Roar has an intimidating presence, much like the calmness of the creature it is named after.
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The final route into Tiger Roar is a slender path named “The Lifeline” due to its challenging nature. Pine trees and tall rock edges stand on either side of the rocky river.
Tiger Roar Rock River
As the “river” heads downwards, it plateaus into a road of dense trees marked by evergreen hills on both sides.
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By the time I settled down on some sturdy boulders at the top of the rock river, the sun’s rays – nestled high in the early afternoon sky – make beads of sweat roll down every hiker’s face and neck.
Shek Pik Country Trail, heading towards the Dog’s Teeth Range
Preferring familiar paths over new ones, especially in the afternoon heat, I headed back the way I came. As the journey to Tiger Roar was mostly uphill, the trip back was mostly downhill.
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It surprised me how much more difficult this was. Heading back, the ground underneath seemed to shift even more, pebbles playing with my sense of balance.
Challenging terrain
In one instance, when I chose to let a hiker go along the carved path, I thought little of going over a boulder that was just barely taller than me.
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Wanting to take a break, I sat atop it and placed my backpack on a smaller boulder directly below me.
Somehow, while doing so, I had generated enough forward momentum to tumble forwards and sideways all at once.
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My arms flew up at their sides, hands grabbing at the vines that streamed over the rock. For a few minutes, the world was upside down and I did not know how to make it right side-up again.
Rose myrtle in full bloom
A large hiking group of eight or so people were coming closer. At the head of this group, a good ten feet in the lead of the pack, a sporty young woman stopped in front of me.
“Are you all right there?” she asked, concerned. “Fine,” I replied with far more confidence than I felt.
Reservoir seen from the hiking trail
Not wanting to lose face in front of this stranger, I somehow managed to turn myself over and slide down onto the top of the lower rock, right beside my bag.
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Wishing her and her friends the best of luck, I continued on down the path, glad that the dog’s teeth had only bitten me playfully and left me in one piece.
Text & Photos Victoria Mae Martyn
